It’s good to be back home now, but not completely. My wife and I just spent a few days in the great state of Maine, specifically in the Kennebunkport area. No, we didn’t dine with the Bush family, but we did drive by George Sr’s compound. The town was gorgeous, and nearby Goose Rocks beach provided some great sunrise photos.
I never thought about Maine and food much, but there are a few things that I will always connect with Maine now… The most obvious is, of course, lobstah! Along with lobstah, and, yes, I’m going to spell it that way throughout this blog entry, is the Lobstah Roll, a sandwich I quickly came to love. Also, Maine produces more blueberries than any other state. Note: I was corrected! Maine produces more WILD blueberries than any other state!
The first question I’ve been asked is - Why would you go to Maine in April??? And that’s easy to answer… I like cooler weather, and the season is just getting under way, so the crowds weren’t there yet. Why choose Kennebunkport? It’s not because George Sr. thinks it’s great; it really got decided because the hotel I found was offering a weekend of ballroom dancing lessons along with 2 nights in Kennebunkport. It turns out that more weddings are done at the Nonantum than any other place in Maine.
So I did actually dance last weekend. We had 3 two hour sessions, and we learned very basic steps for foxtrot, waltz, rumba and swing. And I did ok. The best part was that my wife enjoyed it, followed by the fact that we got to meet other couples (all from Boston), and we had a great time.
Today I’m going to concentrate on my newfound favorite sandwich, the Lobstah Roll!I had one each day I was in Maine, starting with a Kennebunkport pub/restaurant called Allison’s. Next was Mabel’s Lobster Claw, then Henry VIII, and, finally, DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant in Portland. That’s the order in which I had them. At the end of this, I’ll tell you which I liked, best to worst. I have to say, though, even the worst was great!
Allison’s
I was actually a bit disappointed in Allison’s as a place. The quaint town of Kennebunkport houses a lot of old shops in old-looking buildings. Allison’s interior is just too new looking. I wish they spent some time making it look older! The lobstah roll here was a typical example of this sandwich species… The bun is a New England style hot dog bun, which is more like a folded piece of bread than a typical hot dog bun, which allows the outside to be toasted. Then green leaf lettuce is laid down, topped with a mixture of lobster meat and a bit of mayonnaise… Not a lot of mayo, just enough to hold the meat together well. Served with fries and cole slaw, this is a prototypical Lobstah Roll.
Mabel’s Lobster Claw
After a dinner of mussels cooked in beer at Federal Jack’s, which somehow escaped my camera, Saturday found us sitting at the quaint Mabel’s Lobster Claw, within easy walking distance of the Nonantum. Mabel’s has been around for over 70 years, and they have a wine list you would not expect at a place this small and so local diner looking. The wine list includes wines like Opus One and the like! However, I wasn’t there for that style of eating… I had a Shipyard Ale (Shipyard started at Federal Jack’s) to go with my Lobstah Roll. This time, the roll was still on leaf lettuce, but the lobster meat was mayonnaise-less. Still very much what one would expect in a Lobstah Roll.
Henry VIII
The next day found us driving southwest along highway 9, going from Kennebunkport to Kennebunk to Wells to Ogunquit to York. Had I looked at a map, I would have gone on to Portsmouth, but I didn’t realize how close we were, but Cape Neddick had a lighthouse, which was pretty cool to see. We were looking for a place in Ogunquit, but when we got there, it was packed and hard to find a parking spot, so we drove on back to Kennebunkport and went to Henry VIII, which we already knew had great sandwiches. Their lobstah roll is a bit different in that they don’t use the typical hot dog bun; instead, they use kind of a baguette, like they use on their other sandwiches. Leaf lettuce was there, and there was just a touch of mayo, and the meat was obviously good. A Lobstah Roll curve ball in that different bread was used, though.
DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant
The last roll was in Portland, on our way to the airport. The day was colder, grey and starting to rain. We walked out to DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant on Long Wharf, and I got the last lobstah roll of my trip. This time, it was again on the New England hot dog bun, but with iceberg lettuce instead of leaf, and no mayo to notice. This was a pretty good way to end the Lobstah Roll portion of my trip.
There were my 4 samples of Lobstah Rolls. As promised here are my rankings, and why:
- Mabel’s Lobster Claw. Everything about this lobstah roll was right, and the meat was perfectly cooked and tender. The lobstah was highlighted and really showed off here.
- Allison’s. The ambiance may be why Allison’s took second instead of first, as it was also a great lobstah roll. The mayo wasn’t overpowering at all, but I wish it looked more like a Kennebunkport pub than a sports bar.
- DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant. Very good, but the iceberg lettuce was a bit too bitter to place higher.
- Henry VIII. The downfall for this is the great bread used. The baguette style bread takes over too much of the spotlight from the lobster meat. In a lobstah roll, the lobstah is king! Unfortunately, the lobstah has to share the throne with the bread here.
As I said, all were great. If Henry VIII was the only lobstah roll available, I wouldn’t complain at all. I might only eat half the bread, but I’d enjoy every bite still! And I learned that Maine, even off season, is a really great place! The slogan of the state is ‘The Way Life Should Be”, and I believe it.
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Blasphemy!!!!!!!!
Lettuce, celery, paprika, crusty French rolls are not acceptable ingredients for a lobster roll!!!!!!
Check here to see how it is done properly-
http://goodmorninggloucester.wordpress.com/2008/04/28/ingredients-for-the-worlds-greatest-lobster-roll/
http://goodmorninggloucester.wordpress.com/2008/04/28/worlds-greatest-lobster-roll/
Are you kidding??? Any self-respecting New England lobster lover knows full well that the ONLY real lobater roll is on that toasted hot dog bun, NO greens of any kind, a little bit of mayo (and it MUST be Hellmans), NO paprika, NO nothin’ else! Sheesh.
All other affectations are just that…..and ordering them marks you for life as a tourista. Heheheheheh.
Joey, not having had lobster rolls before, I didn’t realize that even lettuce was against the rules.
All the restaurants I saw included some, but I noticed that, personally, I liked having just one layer of leaf lettuce over several. It seemed to allow the bread not to be soggy while not overwhelming the lobster in any way.
The French bread was an obvious departure. It was still good, but not quite what I wanted.
Evelyn, you and Joey seem to disagree on your mayo.
I will go on record, though, stating I did not order any extras on my lobster rolls; I took them as they were served. There also seems to be some debate on mayo vs. no mayo, and I liked both.
And I also admit I was a tourist!
While taking the shots at DiMillo’s, a guy at the next table made a comment along the lines of, ‘That guy really likes his food!’
Don’t let those rat bastards up in Maine mess you up. Next time you are up in the Northeast, visit Gloucester. We will show you what’s up.
Great blog, BTW, love the photos.
Curt, I’ve always thought that adding lettuce (at least more than one leaf) is just a way to bulk it up to look like more lobster. Sheesh. As I just said to Joe elsewhere, celery, lettuce, and crusty bread is an abomination; paprika should be a felony!! Heh.
Love this site, though.
Cains is the ONLY mayonnaise.
Thanks, Joey. And I’d be glad to try Gloucester lobstah rolls, too! The main thing I thought the lettuce added was texture, but I don’t know that I care when the lobster is that fresh.
BTW, speaking of blueberries, if you haven’t already, you should hit the festivals. The hands down best blueberry and strawberry pies I ever ate (made with a baked shell filled with fresh berries, topped with a bit of thickened–a little corn starch–cooked mashed ones (just to hold it a little bit together), well-chllled, and with a plop of good real whipped cream before serving were served at a place called “Helen’s” in Machias. That was many years ago and I often wonder if it’s still around.
I have to stop this….am drowning in my drool….
Evelyn, I would have loved to have caught a blueberry festival. I really do love them.
I’m glad you like the site; it seems my lobstah rolls have enticed a different group of people!
After all, I found NO good examples of barbecue in Maine.
Lots of lobster, a teensy bit of Cains mayo, a grilled buttery roll. PERIOD. At least here in Gloucester — in other seaport towns it is different. In Nova Scotia they are served hot with lobster in a buttery hollandaise-like sauce. Yum!
I’m getting more of you Gloucesterites than anybody today, just to let me know I don’t know lobster rolls from a hole in the ground!
I’m hoping to get back to New England to try more lobster rolls to compare, though.
(Is Cains a local New England brand?)
I think so. I’m actually from Pennsylvania but have lived here for 20 years now. I never heard of Cains until I moved here — but now I’m hooked on it.
Cains is an old Boston company. Been around for a long time. But found all over New England and elsewhere in the eastern part of the country.
The only reason I like Hellman’s better is that it’s thicker and stronger flavor. Cains is good, but a little thin.
Your Cape Ann (Gloucester & Rockport) invasion is courtesy of Joe, a lobster guy in Gloucester and all around good person.
Come to Cape Ann and try our great eating places! More than just seafood—which is amazingly great….one of the best Mexican restaurants is here (who knew?), an excellent Axorean place with real Portuguese foods and tapas, Latitude 43 which some now say has the best sushi in the Boston area.
I’ll have to look for some Cain’s to try out.
And you may have noticed, I raided back.
I’m always willing to learn more about eating lobster!
Cains, Curt, Cains — no apostrophe.
Evelyn, I’m sure I’d love Cape Ann… The photos I’ve seen already on blogs have been incredible. I think I may have to start in Boston and just start going north from there until I run out of US.
Darn, corrected yet again today! Some days just go that way. Thanks for the correct Cains, Kathleen.
Great post Curt! I actually grew up in Maine and lots and lots of people really love the Lobster rolls at the Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster in Freeport. So add that to your list for nect time
Personally I’d rather just go to the J. Crew outlet though. I don’t like lobster. I know…I know… blasphemy!
You know already you’ll get a hearty welcome on Cape Ann!
Cains (sorry about the apostrophe) also makes a fair number of institutionsl sauces and mayo. Very common on college campus food services, restuarants, etc. Some are good, others very run of the mill. Don’t know how far west you can find them, but I do know they’re in NY state even in Buffalo area.
Erin, not liking lobster??? You should say you’re allergic instead!
I almost wanted to go to Freeport, just the LLBean trip… Still living in a college mindset, I suppose.
Evelyn, one of the things about how the interwebs seems to work now is that you can find good people to meet when you travel. Barbecuers are famous for being friendly, no matter where they are.
I wrote my blog (www.ParlezMoiBlog.com) about four excellent Cape Ann photo blogs (including Capt. Joe’s). Click on my name above to link to four excellent local photo web sites!
Who knew this comment section would have legs like this?
Joey, who knew lobster rolls were so controversial?? That’s all it takes, controversy or a good cookie recipe!
Great photos, Curt! Your pix are very clear and well-defined. The reason I don’t like Cains is because it is far sweeter than Hellmanns. I’d rather not mask the natural sweetness in really fresh lobster meat.
[...] across a blog from a nice fellow from Ohio, Curt who runs a great blog about grilling and bread- Bucky’s BBQ and Bread. He details on his blog his exploits in Maine trying to find the perfect lobster roll and comes up [...]
Here you go Curt-
http://goodmorninggloucester.wordpress.com/2008/05/02/how-to-fk-up-a-lobster-roll/
I never pay for a lobster roll. Why would you when you can roll your own?
But lobster on a baguette is NOT a lobster roll. Next thing you know they’ll be putting tomatoes in the chowdah………..
Ol’ Hipster Ev… (Hmmm… interesting chimera of a handle.. seems to confirm what I’ve been told about ya!):
Helen’s is still there in Machias, and in Ellsworth, too. It is, indeed, known for its desserts.
I stay in Machias right there next to Helen’s, in part because of Helen’s…
P.S. Hellmann’s all the way!
And a single wilted piece of lettuce is just fine.. as is paprika…
Lefty! Helen’s is still there?!?!? There IS a god!!!
Hell, I’d stay next door, too….how oonvenient!
Curt, you have to put Machias on your list for your great northern coastal lobster adventure, part II.
We used to rent a house on Campobello and Machias was the closest place with a laundramat at the time, so we’d go there for an afternoon, wash clothes, and hoover down pie at Helen’s.
Curt, not sure if it’s still the case (but bet it is), but on Campobello, there were loads of wild blueberries growing where you could just go and pick them (free) whenever you wanted. Some of the best I ever tasted! And yes, the cultivated ones compared to the wild, IMO, are roughly the equivalent of canned peas to fresh ones.
Hellmann’s … that’s with an apostrophe … just a dab.
New England hot dog rolls …. fresh and untoasted. Nothing green anywhere near the roll ..
brainfix, thanks for the insights on the differences between Cains and Hellman’s. I’m going to have to try Cains, it seems.
Jim B, what I hadn’t mentioned is the same place that does the baguette lobster roll also does a lobster WRAP!
Lefty, I think you’re just trying to stir the pot!
But I am starting to keep track of all these places to try.
Roxie, obviously there’s a strong contingent that agrees with you. I may have to contact someone in Maine to see if this is more a regional thing, or just a tourist thing.
I’ll put in my vote for Red’s in Wiscasset — an oldie, but I think still the very best lobster roll anywhere. Glad you enjoyed your Maine adventure.
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Lydia, that looks like it’s WAY up north! I’d be willing to give it a shot, though.
And we loved Maine; we’ll definitely be back. I also liked that there are no billboards along the road.
Wiscasset is barely past Pawtland… Hell, the REAL maine don’t staht ’til you get past the Kennebec… Machias is MUCH fuhthuh down thayuh…
the great Canadian writer, Alistair McLeod, of Cape Breton, says when he was growing up you could always tell the families with money becuase they could afford to buy bologna for sandwiches for school lunch. everyone else just had to settle for lobster….
i did my lobster roll testing back in August 2001 all over the Martimes, along with mussels ($5 a pound, washed down with a Keith’s, of course). worth the trip across to border for comparison.